Last Post

Well friends, it is with mixed emotions that I write my last post. It's currently 11:30 am here in Cape Town, and I'm headed home tomorrow, Saturday, at 6:30 pm. So today will be filled with shopping and watching the remaining first round games. I will miss South Africa, but not as much as I will appreciate being back with my family and friends.

Let's start with Wednesday morning when I left for Joberg. I was supposed to have a shuttle pick me up from LSB(Long Street Backpackers). I was up plenty early, but there was only one taxi parked on the street. I waited until closer to 7:05, my scheduled time, and then I went to wake the taxi driver up. I asked him if he was supposed to take me to the airport, and he simply repeated the word "airport". The conversation went on just like this for about 5 minutes before I finally said, "Take me to the airport please." He said R250, and I said R200, and he agreed and we were off. After getting to Joberg, I realized that I would never come back to this city. It was like the city had been burned to a toast. Anyway, compared to Cape Town, it was let's just say. . .unattractive.

So I find a taxi driver who said he would take me to Pretoria for R650. That's quite a bit of money, about 80 dollars US, but it ended up being about fair for the 40 minute ride. Of course, Morris, that was his name, didn't know Pretoria at all. So it ended up being an hour and a half long ride which was fine because I got to see all over Pretoria which has some beautiful homes.

When I arrived at Word of Mouth Backpackers, I thought I was sent there to do background research for the tv show Hoarders. Two old South African white men ran the place along with a huge dog name Kinsah. There were about 7 other Americans out front getting their pre-game on. One, Jacques, was dressed as Superman. Another named Jeff from Manhattan was dressed as Captain America in a full body suit. So I called Nick and Billy to see where they were going to meet up and they basically didn't know exactly where, so I went with the superhero crew.

We ended up at a place called Homebaze. There were probably about 3-400 Americans there and everyone had on at least one piece of US paraphernalia. We were singing/screaming for about 3 hours before game time. Note the first and last time I painted my face for anything. It was horribly itchy, and I spent 30 minutes before the game even started washing it off. Not easy.

So the Lotfus Stadium was much better than Green Point. It is really just a rugby pitch so it is much smaller and older. I personally like both when I'm seeing a band or sports. Plus I had a category 1 ticket, which, is the only way to go people. The other seats are just throwing money away. I sat next to a South African family that had traveled out from Joberg. I told them right when I sat down that I was going to be screaming a lot, but that I was not a soccer hooligan. I also informed them that as soon as the US scored, that I was going to be doing a really funny white man dance.

In the 91st minute Landon Donovan, our savior, scored and I did indeed dance and hug every American that I could find. It was euphoric. The 25 hours of flying to SA, the separate flight/shuttle/taxi/backpacker were all worth with it for one shot. After the game, every American fan stayed and sang chants of USA and the players and coaches all came to every corner of the stadium to clap and show appreciation. It was even noted in the Joberg paper the next day. Also, Bill Clinton was at the game, and I could see him from where I was sitting. Weird.

Pictured here are 2 young kids from Joberg. I started chatting with them while in line. Somehow I got the sense that they weren't able to get enough for the both of them, so I told them to pick out whatever they wanted, and that I would pay for it. Their eyes got big and then asked if they could have a hot dog. I told them again, "Whatever you want." So they each got a hot dog and cokes. I asked them if they were in school and they said yes. I told them they the only reason I had the ability to travel to South Africa and buy tickets to World Cup matches and hot dogs and cokes for people I don't know was because I got an education. I also told them that it was easier for me than it will be for them, but that if they ever want to have all the things that they want, they must educate themselves. Was it heavy-handed, maybe. Was I simplifying a far more complicated situation than I can really know, probably. But it felt right. Look at their faces. What do you think?

So the next day, I got a ride back to Joberg with Capitan America and Superman. That saved me R550. I gave them 100 just for gas and nicety. I was there about 5 hours early so I shaved and washed up in the bathroom like Tom Hanks in The Terminal or something. I also bought and started reading the book Freakonomics. Pretty good so far.

I got back to Cape Town at 7. Was on a bus to the city by 7:15. Was downtown by 7:45. Was in the stadium by 8 and got a drink and a hot dog and sat down as they blew the whistle to start the Netherlands/Cameroon game. It was great to see Eto'o, Robben and the slew of other stars play in person.


The Dutch won 2-1 and that place was a sea of ORANGE. They are the only country in my opinion that travel like the English. After the game, I headed back to my hostel which feels almost like home now. But not for long.

Thanks for following along. I hope you had even one tenth of the enjoyment that I had on this trip. I knew it would be life changing, or at least mindset changing, and it has surpassed my wildest dreams. South Africa is NOT dangerous. Not anymore than downtown Dallas. South Africans are just like anybody else who wants the world to see them for who they are and not what is fed via the media. It is the most beautiful place I've been in all of my travels. Do yourself a favor and come here if at all possible. You won't regret it.

Peninsula Tour

Today I saw something truly amazing. I traveled down to the Cape of Good Hope and stood at the lighthouse and saw the Indian and Atlantic Oceans seperated by a mountain that was about a football field wide. Of course my camera ran out as I got to the top, but anothe American took some of me and is supposed to email them to me. I will post when I get them. What's amazing is the difference between the two oceans. I've always thought it was strange that they change the names of the oceans even though, technically, it's all one big ocean. Today made me understnad why. The Atlantic is colder and thus more conducive to fish and the Indian is warmer and more conducive for whales. The Atlantic is a piercing teal-blue as it rolls in off the rocks that ruined many a sea-goers' voyage. The Indian is more of a deep dark cobalt blue. It was phenomenal. This is the Indian Ocean on the right here.

They let us out in the Cape Point National Park, and we rode bikes down in through the park. It was absolutley stunning with the mountains on your left and ocean on your right. There are wild baboons and ostriches up and down the road. A baboon actually attacked a guy that sat next to me on the trip. No matter how many times you tell humans not to feed the animals. . .they feed them. Following directions is definitely a life skill.

Neverthless, it was outstanding. We also stopped at Boulder's Beach in Simon's Town and visited a penguin colony. They live, just the like the humans here in Cape Town, up in the hills and walk down to the beach everyday for sun and fun. I couldn't really get a good pic of one, but I'm posting the best that I got.

Another cool part of the day was listening to the Bafana Bafana game on the radio and riding through town. When they scored, the cars started honking their horns and people came running out of shops blowing their vuvuzelas. As I sit here on Long Street, the party has already begun. It's 6:23 pm right now. It will go for about 10 hours. Not kidding.

I fly out tomorrow morning for the US game in Pretoria. Go US!

Last Night/Portugal

A couple of American friends came into Cape Town on Saturday, so we met for dinner and then a little club called Zula across from where I'm staying. Anyway, it was nice to be around people that I know from home.

Here is a pic from the game that I went to today. Portugal beat North Korea 7-0 which was just pure football enjoyment to watch. I felt sorry for the North Koreans a little bit, but it was one of the most fun international games I've ever seen live.

Afterwards, I had lunch with Gaytan and a couple from Singapore who are staying at my hostel. We went to Den Anker again, but I was very disappointed this time. I ordered Tomate Crevettes Grises which was supposed to be shrimp stuffed inside tomatoes, but it just wasn't what I expected I guess. Anyway, we accidentally only tipped the waiter 5%. So he comes back to the table and informs us that if we were pleased with the service that it is customary to tip 10%. Well, I've heard both that you do and don't tip in Africa, so I was offended that he was so bold. In thinking about it, maybe he was just trying to explain how things "work" here in South Africa. I would be interested to hear what others feel to see if I should feel guilty.

Anyway, I'm excited about watching Spain tonight, and then I'm off on the peninsula tour tomorrow since it's supposed to be quite nice. To the right is a pic of Kwak, an amazing Belgian beer that comes in that funky glass. They call it Kwak because that's the noise it makes because of the ball at the bottom of the glass. It comes out in a flood and makes that sound supposedly. Just a little trivia.

Robben Island

Didn't get much done besides Robben Island today. It was definitely a must do here in Cape Town. It really gives you a larger perspective on South Africa. The highlight was easily the man who was our guide that spent 10 years on the island. He had been a political outcast and eventually someone flipped in his party, ANC, and he was sentenced to 25 years. He only spent 10 as apartheid was broken up in the early 90's. It was a very solemn trip, but highly interesting that even as recently as the 90's people still hold such obtuse political/social beliefs. One interesting point was that the current president, Zuma, was also there for 10 years. I got pictures of both his and Mandela's cells. About 7 feet by 7 feet. On Sundays, they weren't allowed to their cells all day.

Mandela was there for 18 years.

New Chapter

Well my travel companion, Brent, has returned back to the US. So, naturally, that changes the complexion of my trip. However, I've gotten to know everyone where I'm staying, and I'm now in my own room! I actually got one whole night of uninterrupted sleep. The last few days have been spent watching tons of football. In fact, I haven't missed a match so far. We did venture over to Camps Bay two days ago. Wow. If I ever win the lottery, I will be buying a house in Camps Bay. That is the picture that you see above. We showed up around 4:30 in order to see the sunset, and it didn't disappoint.


We had fries and Peroni while we watched Greece/Nigeria. To the right you see a shot from inside Sapphire. It was as nice as it looks. Cape Town continues to impress with it's natural beauty.

Today, I'm headed down to get my ticket for the US/Algeria game in Pretoria. I found one online through FIFA. I was pleasantly surprised to be able to so this close to the game. Afterwards, I'm headed to Robben Island. So I'm ready for a history lesson. Tomorrow, I've got a ticket to North Korea/Portugal, and the day after I'm taking a peninsula tour which is supposed to be amazing. I will make sure to report back. Until then. . .

Wine Tour

Yes, this ended up being as divine as it sounds. I'm not a huge wine drinker, but I do enjoy the flavor of a good grape. I was more going for the scenery and a chance to get outside of Cape Town. It did not disappoint. The picture at the top is of Brent, myself and a Belgian named Gaytan. He has been a fun traveling companion as he loves football, books, Belgian beers and good conversation. This was the second vineyard that we went to. It was also in the Stollenbocsh area and was well into the mountains as you can see. On the way into the area, there were peaks at least 4-5,000 feet above where we were that were covered in snow. Very picturesque. Unfortunately, my camera doesn't really do justice to anything outside of 20 feet or so.

As mentioned before, I don't drink much wine, but I would have to say that the best that I had was a Pintoage which is a blend of Pinot Noir and Heritage(not 100%). We also had champagne, port, sauvignon blanc, merlot and a few others.

At lunch, we stopped at a little place called Le Pommier. I had a Greek Salad, another something that I don't do much, but it was outstanding. The best feta cheese that I've ever had. I was really stepping out on this excursion. ;)

To the left is a crazy picture from Le Pommier. It turned out quite artistic despite the fact that I had no idea it would! But it does capture the surreal ambiance of the area.

We continued on to 2 more vineyards in what was a city call Paarl, which is Africaans for pearl. The penultimate was Goats something vineyard which Brent was very excited to say was on a show called 3 Sheets. They actually had goats in the front and very good pinotage called the Goatfather, which you see below.

This was the place that they advertised that we could have an hour long cheese eating break. It sounded well and good, and for the most part, it was. We had about 7 different varieties of goat cheese, and 6 were just fine. However, two cheese plates in front of us a woman let out a stomach clenching, "Ueahueaheuck." I'm not positive, but I think that's German for, "Thanks, but no thanks." So Gaytan was next in line, and he steps up in true Belgian fashion and says, "No, that's actually quite good." So I'm next, and I grab a piece of the stinkiest cheese I've ever imagined. Of course, I had just seen a Rick Steve's on how some of the best cheese is really stinky. I told you that I was stepping out. . .so I put in my mouth. . .and two seconds later, I spit it up into my hand. To give you some mental picture, which many of you are already not needing, I had to wash my hand because of the stench that it left for the 2 seconds that it was in the palm of my hand! Yes, it's funny now.

Overall, it was some of the most beautiful scenery I've seen in person or on tv. Furthermore, it gave me another glimpse of the disparity between the "haves" and the "have-nots". We passed many, many less fortunate families, and it's an ever present reminder of the inequity in quality of life. The US, really is so far ahead of the rest of the world in it's ability to provide its citizens with the opportunity to achieve essentially whatever they want. Not perfect, but before the next time you go to criticize. . .travel.

Update

A few days have passed in a flash. Due in large part to the 6-7 hours of soccer that we've been watching. The other part being that our sleep schedule is roughly 1-2 in the morning and then waking up at 10-11. So we only have 2-3 hours before the games begin. But hey, it is vacation after all, right?

The subsequent nights since my last post have seen some of the initial excitement come down on Long Street. However, it's really interesting to see how the demographics change depending on which teams are playing here in Cape Town. Next come the English and the Algerians. Could get interesting.

Last night we had our best meal so far before last night's game. I had prawns and talapia with a nice sauvignon blanc called Raka. Brent had a delicious steak with some Belgian beer. It was a Belgian restaurant called The Anchor(Der Anker). At any rate, we sat next to 3 Mexicans. Two were younger and one was in his late 60's. While Brent was in the bathroom, I started chatting them in Spanish and asked them where they were from. The father spoke to me in Spanish but the other two, responded in English after I told them that I was American. As it turned out, one of the young guys lives in Dallas and is in his last year of law school at SMU. His father was very proud. They were drinking chardonnay, so we swapped glasses of wine and proceeded to the game.

It was raining off and on the entire time. Despite this, there was a lot more energy in the stadium. Italy controlled the entire first half until a Paraguay free kick was perfectly placed in the upper right hand corner. I was very content, as I always cheer for Italy's opposition. At half time, I decided to learn from my previous experience and use the downstairs bathroom. There weren't any urinals, it was just a big wall with running water down it. I kid you not, there were probably 300 of us in this space for about 150, shoulder to shoulder. TIA.

Italy came back to equalize off of a corner that was taken about 20 feet from where we were sitting. We had 4th row right behind the corner flag. Being that close really shows you have FAST these guys are. It was very enjoyable despite the rain.

One other incident that I had was before we went to eat at The Anchor, I met some local Capetonians at the bar. One guy was wearing a Springbok jacket, which is the South African rugby team, duh. They were very interested and glad to hear that my time in Cape Town had been very enjoyable. They asked me where I was from and one of them said, "That's funny, you seem more like a democrat." I told him that I was and that McCain had actually only beaten Obama 51-49 in Texas which they found very interesting. In the end, they bought us a round and sent me on my way back to the table of Americans that we had met at the US/England match two nights earlier. It was a good thing we ran across them too, because the place was packed. Another axiom of traveling abroad during the World Cup: You are instantly friends with and protected by other Americans. Go US!

Bafana Bafana

Well, for all the people that think that this World Cup is just about sport here for South Africa should have been with me yesterday. I felt I got to witness history as I shared the opening ceremonies with about 3,000 Capetonians. Black and white. All wearing the Bafana Bafana green and yellow jersey. Along with a vuvuzela, every single person had on something that said South Africa on it. I got to the tent that had a huge screen projecting the game 3 hours before the game. This was not a moment too early, either. We had to sit on the ground in front of all the picnic tables as everything was already taken by the time we got there. Out of nowhere, all them just started blowing their vuvuzelas and started dancing and chanting Ole, Ole, Ole as a group. Mind you, this is just pure excitement that a) the World Cup is about to start b) the Bafana Bafana is actually IN the World Cup c) The whole world is getting to see a different side of Africa and it's a chance to dispel the many media driven myths about Africa.

After many missed opportunities by the Mexicans, SA put in a picture perfect blast from the left side on one of a few counter-attack opportunities that they had. You could not have placed a better ball into the net. The place went BERSERK! Sorry Mexican friends, I was celebrating like SA was my new home country. It was electrifying. This is what people that don't follow soccer will never understand. They will never understand how a goal can unite a country. No touchdown, 3-pointer or home run could ever do what a goal can. And that goal was a goal I will never forget.

The Mexicans eventually equalized, but SA got a draw out of what will be there biggest test in this first round. After watching the Uruguay/France game, the Bafana have a legitimate shot of making it out of their group. Something that nobody really could have foreseen.

Which brings us to the next event of the day: Green Point Stadium. I will try to post what pics I got of it, but it is a gorgeous stadium. We had decent seats. We were about 20 rows up from the pitch on one of the corner flags. It was pretty amazing to see some of my favorite players(Henry, Ribery, Forlan, Anelka, etc.) Despite the star power, it was a pretty awful match. Nobody could really retain any possession and the only legitimate chances came in the waning moments as Henry and Malouda were finally subbed in. I have no idea why Malouda wasn't starting. Maybe that's why the French and the players aren't really pleased with their coach. But until I get a call from Sarkozy and the French FA, I guess I will just have to keep posting my opinions here on this blog. 8)

Before the match, we were hanging at the Victoria and Albert Waterfront. A sensational place with loads of seafood restaurants sprinkled around the infrastructure of a functioning modern day port. The weather was sublime. 55 and a slight breeze off the ocean. I met a really nice Capetonian family of 3. The parents were probably approaching 70 and their son was probably 13. We spent about 30 minutes discussing American politics and the fact that Americans are so scared of everything. It was just another moment of me realizing how little I, and most Americans, know about world politics. He knew just about everything that has happened in American politics over the last 20 years, and I couldn't even tell him who the president of South Africa was. Must improve.

Two funny(sort of) things happened yesterday. During the SA match, the power went completely out 2 or 3 times. I leaned over and asked the girl next to me if they really do say TIA(This Is Africa) whenever things like this happen. She said that that was exactly what TIA meant and that they use it all the time. So, later that night at the game, I waited in line for the handicapped restroom because there weren't any others on the entire level! As the two guys behind me and I complained, I said, "Well, TIA." The both just nodded and we got on with the night.

Table Mountain

Well I had a few objectives for today, and I'm pretty sure that I got all of them accomplished. We found the Fan Fest that is closest to us(half a mile) and it was PACKED. Mind you, there wasn't even a game going on. Everywhere you go you hear the "vuvuzelas" that appear to be given out as a birthright here in Cape Town. Not even the grocery store is immune to them firing off. At Fan Fest, I had a hot dog although it wasn't too similar to an American dog. It had small, under-cooked fries lining the bun and a light "tomato sauce" that was more pink than red. Anyway, I ended up giving the last half to a beggar on the street. She asked me to buy her something to eat. I was testing her when I told her that I would give her whatever I didn't eat. She passed the test. She stood right beside me until I have her the left-overs. Cultural note: if someone asks for money in the US for food, they are going to buy booze. In South Africa, they actually are asking for food.

Afterwards, we made our way through some open air markets, and I picked up a South African scarf and hat. Both of which will be very functional souvenirs as it's about 50 at night with a constant breeze coming in off the oceans. After some soccer reading, we were off to Table Mountain. A 45 Rand cab drive found us at the foot of the tram station waiting to take us about 3,000 ft. straight up the mountain. While in line, a Frenchman offered Brent and me a ticket. I thought he was joking, and holding out a ticket stub. I asked him in French if he was serious, and surprisingly asked if I were French. I told him I was American, but that I spoke enough to get by. He was so taken by this that he offered me the tickets for free. But after some coaxing by his more entrepreneurial friend, they charged us 100 Rand. It would have cost us 320 Rand. So, people, multi-lingualism has its advantages. Particularly abroad. 8)

Once atop Table Mountain, the view just overtakes you. I fell in love with it right away. You can see the waves crashing on the rocky shore that juts out all along the coast. A coast which has claimed over 650 shipwrecks in last 400 years. The waves look to be moving in slow motion you are so far away from them. We then had lunch at the cafe which overlooks the view. So far, I've only been able to put up one pic per post, so it's not going to do it justice. They are even campaigning to have it added as a wonder of the world. It has my vote!

We are about to get into our last night with no football. I love this place because at our hostel, I was actually asked to not use the word "soccer". If you use that word, you have to take what's called a "penalty shot". No matter where you are, if you're a football fan, you're never alone.

Dubai/Cape Town

Well, it's Wednesday around 9 pm here in Cape Town. Just got finished with 27 hours of plane travel and a 12 hour lay-over in Dubai. Amazingly, I feel pretty good. Probably just adrenaline. Anyway, Dubai is unlike any city I've ever seen. I would compare it to an Arabic Las Vegas. Everything is extremely opulent to the point that North Dallas starts to look like a ghetto. However, even on our worst day, we can't put up the kind of soul drenching heat and humidity that the United Emirates can. Two words: dirt sauna. Yeah, they don't have those pictures up on the brochures. Architecturally, it is a world marvel. Culturally and aromatically, it was stanKy.

Cape Town, on the other hand, is about 50 degrees with a breeze coming in off where the the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet. We'll call it a very "cool" welcome by the mother city. The people where we are staying are very nice and security based which is a comfort. The view of table mountain on the way in from the airport was everything that I thought it would be. It has a Santa Barbara, California feel with the beach and the hilly terrain. They also have the African pines that sit atop the hills which lets you know that you are only in one place: Africa.

Anyway, we have tomorrow to explore the city and then Friday kicks off the opener between South Africa and Mexico at 4 local time, and we have tickets for the France/Uruguay game at 8 local time. I will update with pictures tomorrow as I left my cable back at the room. That's all for now.

Anticipation

It's Sunday afternoon, and I'm just getting everything ready to go for tomorrow. Getting this blog set up is one of the last things on my list! Anyway, I will try to write as much as possible. Feel free to communicate with me. I hope you enjoy.

Drew