Last Post

Well friends, it is with mixed emotions that I write my last post. It's currently 11:30 am here in Cape Town, and I'm headed home tomorrow, Saturday, at 6:30 pm. So today will be filled with shopping and watching the remaining first round games. I will miss South Africa, but not as much as I will appreciate being back with my family and friends.

Let's start with Wednesday morning when I left for Joberg. I was supposed to have a shuttle pick me up from LSB(Long Street Backpackers). I was up plenty early, but there was only one taxi parked on the street. I waited until closer to 7:05, my scheduled time, and then I went to wake the taxi driver up. I asked him if he was supposed to take me to the airport, and he simply repeated the word "airport". The conversation went on just like this for about 5 minutes before I finally said, "Take me to the airport please." He said R250, and I said R200, and he agreed and we were off. After getting to Joberg, I realized that I would never come back to this city. It was like the city had been burned to a toast. Anyway, compared to Cape Town, it was let's just say. . .unattractive.

So I find a taxi driver who said he would take me to Pretoria for R650. That's quite a bit of money, about 80 dollars US, but it ended up being about fair for the 40 minute ride. Of course, Morris, that was his name, didn't know Pretoria at all. So it ended up being an hour and a half long ride which was fine because I got to see all over Pretoria which has some beautiful homes.

When I arrived at Word of Mouth Backpackers, I thought I was sent there to do background research for the tv show Hoarders. Two old South African white men ran the place along with a huge dog name Kinsah. There were about 7 other Americans out front getting their pre-game on. One, Jacques, was dressed as Superman. Another named Jeff from Manhattan was dressed as Captain America in a full body suit. So I called Nick and Billy to see where they were going to meet up and they basically didn't know exactly where, so I went with the superhero crew.

We ended up at a place called Homebaze. There were probably about 3-400 Americans there and everyone had on at least one piece of US paraphernalia. We were singing/screaming for about 3 hours before game time. Note the first and last time I painted my face for anything. It was horribly itchy, and I spent 30 minutes before the game even started washing it off. Not easy.

So the Lotfus Stadium was much better than Green Point. It is really just a rugby pitch so it is much smaller and older. I personally like both when I'm seeing a band or sports. Plus I had a category 1 ticket, which, is the only way to go people. The other seats are just throwing money away. I sat next to a South African family that had traveled out from Joberg. I told them right when I sat down that I was going to be screaming a lot, but that I was not a soccer hooligan. I also informed them that as soon as the US scored, that I was going to be doing a really funny white man dance.

In the 91st minute Landon Donovan, our savior, scored and I did indeed dance and hug every American that I could find. It was euphoric. The 25 hours of flying to SA, the separate flight/shuttle/taxi/backpacker were all worth with it for one shot. After the game, every American fan stayed and sang chants of USA and the players and coaches all came to every corner of the stadium to clap and show appreciation. It was even noted in the Joberg paper the next day. Also, Bill Clinton was at the game, and I could see him from where I was sitting. Weird.

Pictured here are 2 young kids from Joberg. I started chatting with them while in line. Somehow I got the sense that they weren't able to get enough for the both of them, so I told them to pick out whatever they wanted, and that I would pay for it. Their eyes got big and then asked if they could have a hot dog. I told them again, "Whatever you want." So they each got a hot dog and cokes. I asked them if they were in school and they said yes. I told them they the only reason I had the ability to travel to South Africa and buy tickets to World Cup matches and hot dogs and cokes for people I don't know was because I got an education. I also told them that it was easier for me than it will be for them, but that if they ever want to have all the things that they want, they must educate themselves. Was it heavy-handed, maybe. Was I simplifying a far more complicated situation than I can really know, probably. But it felt right. Look at their faces. What do you think?

So the next day, I got a ride back to Joberg with Capitan America and Superman. That saved me R550. I gave them 100 just for gas and nicety. I was there about 5 hours early so I shaved and washed up in the bathroom like Tom Hanks in The Terminal or something. I also bought and started reading the book Freakonomics. Pretty good so far.

I got back to Cape Town at 7. Was on a bus to the city by 7:15. Was downtown by 7:45. Was in the stadium by 8 and got a drink and a hot dog and sat down as they blew the whistle to start the Netherlands/Cameroon game. It was great to see Eto'o, Robben and the slew of other stars play in person.


The Dutch won 2-1 and that place was a sea of ORANGE. They are the only country in my opinion that travel like the English. After the game, I headed back to my hostel which feels almost like home now. But not for long.

Thanks for following along. I hope you had even one tenth of the enjoyment that I had on this trip. I knew it would be life changing, or at least mindset changing, and it has surpassed my wildest dreams. South Africa is NOT dangerous. Not anymore than downtown Dallas. South Africans are just like anybody else who wants the world to see them for who they are and not what is fed via the media. It is the most beautiful place I've been in all of my travels. Do yourself a favor and come here if at all possible. You won't regret it.

Peninsula Tour

Today I saw something truly amazing. I traveled down to the Cape of Good Hope and stood at the lighthouse and saw the Indian and Atlantic Oceans seperated by a mountain that was about a football field wide. Of course my camera ran out as I got to the top, but anothe American took some of me and is supposed to email them to me. I will post when I get them. What's amazing is the difference between the two oceans. I've always thought it was strange that they change the names of the oceans even though, technically, it's all one big ocean. Today made me understnad why. The Atlantic is colder and thus more conducive to fish and the Indian is warmer and more conducive for whales. The Atlantic is a piercing teal-blue as it rolls in off the rocks that ruined many a sea-goers' voyage. The Indian is more of a deep dark cobalt blue. It was phenomenal. This is the Indian Ocean on the right here.

They let us out in the Cape Point National Park, and we rode bikes down in through the park. It was absolutley stunning with the mountains on your left and ocean on your right. There are wild baboons and ostriches up and down the road. A baboon actually attacked a guy that sat next to me on the trip. No matter how many times you tell humans not to feed the animals. . .they feed them. Following directions is definitely a life skill.

Neverthless, it was outstanding. We also stopped at Boulder's Beach in Simon's Town and visited a penguin colony. They live, just the like the humans here in Cape Town, up in the hills and walk down to the beach everyday for sun and fun. I couldn't really get a good pic of one, but I'm posting the best that I got.

Another cool part of the day was listening to the Bafana Bafana game on the radio and riding through town. When they scored, the cars started honking their horns and people came running out of shops blowing their vuvuzelas. As I sit here on Long Street, the party has already begun. It's 6:23 pm right now. It will go for about 10 hours. Not kidding.

I fly out tomorrow morning for the US game in Pretoria. Go US!

Last Night/Portugal

A couple of American friends came into Cape Town on Saturday, so we met for dinner and then a little club called Zula across from where I'm staying. Anyway, it was nice to be around people that I know from home.

Here is a pic from the game that I went to today. Portugal beat North Korea 7-0 which was just pure football enjoyment to watch. I felt sorry for the North Koreans a little bit, but it was one of the most fun international games I've ever seen live.

Afterwards, I had lunch with Gaytan and a couple from Singapore who are staying at my hostel. We went to Den Anker again, but I was very disappointed this time. I ordered Tomate Crevettes Grises which was supposed to be shrimp stuffed inside tomatoes, but it just wasn't what I expected I guess. Anyway, we accidentally only tipped the waiter 5%. So he comes back to the table and informs us that if we were pleased with the service that it is customary to tip 10%. Well, I've heard both that you do and don't tip in Africa, so I was offended that he was so bold. In thinking about it, maybe he was just trying to explain how things "work" here in South Africa. I would be interested to hear what others feel to see if I should feel guilty.

Anyway, I'm excited about watching Spain tonight, and then I'm off on the peninsula tour tomorrow since it's supposed to be quite nice. To the right is a pic of Kwak, an amazing Belgian beer that comes in that funky glass. They call it Kwak because that's the noise it makes because of the ball at the bottom of the glass. It comes out in a flood and makes that sound supposedly. Just a little trivia.

Robben Island

Didn't get much done besides Robben Island today. It was definitely a must do here in Cape Town. It really gives you a larger perspective on South Africa. The highlight was easily the man who was our guide that spent 10 years on the island. He had been a political outcast and eventually someone flipped in his party, ANC, and he was sentenced to 25 years. He only spent 10 as apartheid was broken up in the early 90's. It was a very solemn trip, but highly interesting that even as recently as the 90's people still hold such obtuse political/social beliefs. One interesting point was that the current president, Zuma, was also there for 10 years. I got pictures of both his and Mandela's cells. About 7 feet by 7 feet. On Sundays, they weren't allowed to their cells all day.

Mandela was there for 18 years.

New Chapter

Well my travel companion, Brent, has returned back to the US. So, naturally, that changes the complexion of my trip. However, I've gotten to know everyone where I'm staying, and I'm now in my own room! I actually got one whole night of uninterrupted sleep. The last few days have been spent watching tons of football. In fact, I haven't missed a match so far. We did venture over to Camps Bay two days ago. Wow. If I ever win the lottery, I will be buying a house in Camps Bay. That is the picture that you see above. We showed up around 4:30 in order to see the sunset, and it didn't disappoint.


We had fries and Peroni while we watched Greece/Nigeria. To the right you see a shot from inside Sapphire. It was as nice as it looks. Cape Town continues to impress with it's natural beauty.

Today, I'm headed down to get my ticket for the US/Algeria game in Pretoria. I found one online through FIFA. I was pleasantly surprised to be able to so this close to the game. Afterwards, I'm headed to Robben Island. So I'm ready for a history lesson. Tomorrow, I've got a ticket to North Korea/Portugal, and the day after I'm taking a peninsula tour which is supposed to be amazing. I will make sure to report back. Until then. . .

Wine Tour

Yes, this ended up being as divine as it sounds. I'm not a huge wine drinker, but I do enjoy the flavor of a good grape. I was more going for the scenery and a chance to get outside of Cape Town. It did not disappoint. The picture at the top is of Brent, myself and a Belgian named Gaytan. He has been a fun traveling companion as he loves football, books, Belgian beers and good conversation. This was the second vineyard that we went to. It was also in the Stollenbocsh area and was well into the mountains as you can see. On the way into the area, there were peaks at least 4-5,000 feet above where we were that were covered in snow. Very picturesque. Unfortunately, my camera doesn't really do justice to anything outside of 20 feet or so.

As mentioned before, I don't drink much wine, but I would have to say that the best that I had was a Pintoage which is a blend of Pinot Noir and Heritage(not 100%). We also had champagne, port, sauvignon blanc, merlot and a few others.

At lunch, we stopped at a little place called Le Pommier. I had a Greek Salad, another something that I don't do much, but it was outstanding. The best feta cheese that I've ever had. I was really stepping out on this excursion. ;)

To the left is a crazy picture from Le Pommier. It turned out quite artistic despite the fact that I had no idea it would! But it does capture the surreal ambiance of the area.

We continued on to 2 more vineyards in what was a city call Paarl, which is Africaans for pearl. The penultimate was Goats something vineyard which Brent was very excited to say was on a show called 3 Sheets. They actually had goats in the front and very good pinotage called the Goatfather, which you see below.

This was the place that they advertised that we could have an hour long cheese eating break. It sounded well and good, and for the most part, it was. We had about 7 different varieties of goat cheese, and 6 were just fine. However, two cheese plates in front of us a woman let out a stomach clenching, "Ueahueaheuck." I'm not positive, but I think that's German for, "Thanks, but no thanks." So Gaytan was next in line, and he steps up in true Belgian fashion and says, "No, that's actually quite good." So I'm next, and I grab a piece of the stinkiest cheese I've ever imagined. Of course, I had just seen a Rick Steve's on how some of the best cheese is really stinky. I told you that I was stepping out. . .so I put in my mouth. . .and two seconds later, I spit it up into my hand. To give you some mental picture, which many of you are already not needing, I had to wash my hand because of the stench that it left for the 2 seconds that it was in the palm of my hand! Yes, it's funny now.

Overall, it was some of the most beautiful scenery I've seen in person or on tv. Furthermore, it gave me another glimpse of the disparity between the "haves" and the "have-nots". We passed many, many less fortunate families, and it's an ever present reminder of the inequity in quality of life. The US, really is so far ahead of the rest of the world in it's ability to provide its citizens with the opportunity to achieve essentially whatever they want. Not perfect, but before the next time you go to criticize. . .travel.

Update

A few days have passed in a flash. Due in large part to the 6-7 hours of soccer that we've been watching. The other part being that our sleep schedule is roughly 1-2 in the morning and then waking up at 10-11. So we only have 2-3 hours before the games begin. But hey, it is vacation after all, right?

The subsequent nights since my last post have seen some of the initial excitement come down on Long Street. However, it's really interesting to see how the demographics change depending on which teams are playing here in Cape Town. Next come the English and the Algerians. Could get interesting.

Last night we had our best meal so far before last night's game. I had prawns and talapia with a nice sauvignon blanc called Raka. Brent had a delicious steak with some Belgian beer. It was a Belgian restaurant called The Anchor(Der Anker). At any rate, we sat next to 3 Mexicans. Two were younger and one was in his late 60's. While Brent was in the bathroom, I started chatting them in Spanish and asked them where they were from. The father spoke to me in Spanish but the other two, responded in English after I told them that I was American. As it turned out, one of the young guys lives in Dallas and is in his last year of law school at SMU. His father was very proud. They were drinking chardonnay, so we swapped glasses of wine and proceeded to the game.

It was raining off and on the entire time. Despite this, there was a lot more energy in the stadium. Italy controlled the entire first half until a Paraguay free kick was perfectly placed in the upper right hand corner. I was very content, as I always cheer for Italy's opposition. At half time, I decided to learn from my previous experience and use the downstairs bathroom. There weren't any urinals, it was just a big wall with running water down it. I kid you not, there were probably 300 of us in this space for about 150, shoulder to shoulder. TIA.

Italy came back to equalize off of a corner that was taken about 20 feet from where we were sitting. We had 4th row right behind the corner flag. Being that close really shows you have FAST these guys are. It was very enjoyable despite the rain.

One other incident that I had was before we went to eat at The Anchor, I met some local Capetonians at the bar. One guy was wearing a Springbok jacket, which is the South African rugby team, duh. They were very interested and glad to hear that my time in Cape Town had been very enjoyable. They asked me where I was from and one of them said, "That's funny, you seem more like a democrat." I told him that I was and that McCain had actually only beaten Obama 51-49 in Texas which they found very interesting. In the end, they bought us a round and sent me on my way back to the table of Americans that we had met at the US/England match two nights earlier. It was a good thing we ran across them too, because the place was packed. Another axiom of traveling abroad during the World Cup: You are instantly friends with and protected by other Americans. Go US!